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PMPS Sew-Along: Lekala Pattern 4214

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Thanks, readers, for referring to this Lekala pattern:


As you see this skirt is very (very) similar to our Burberry inspiration skirt.



While I have never used Lekala patterns before, I must say it looks very promising and, if it is as good as it looks, we can use it in our sew-along. Our drafting plan will remain unchanged though, we will draft the skirt as planned - it is a great exercise in patternmaking.

CUSTOM FIT?

The site claims it is a custom fit.  With 4 (or 5) personalized measurements that you enter at check out, it probably comes closer to the real you than the Big 4. It should work well with a skirt, but I believe that the more complex the garment the less fit you get - it just doesn't take into consideration all the specifics of your figure. What these patterns do, obviously, is accomodate your height, your waist and your hips, but the remaining measurements that are plugged into system are taken from a 'standard' model. So the claim is somewhat high, but it is not that important for a skirt, which doesn't have as many variables as a jacket, for example.

NO RUSSIAN SPAM

I read those comments on sewing forums about spam, dangerous files, etc... Personally, I don't think the site is hijacked by some dangerous hackers targeting international home-sewing community. I bought the pattern using Paypal, downloaded the pattern and instructions, and my inbox is so far free from Russian spam. If you don't hear from me tomorrow, or the blog suddenly disappears - you will know who is behind it. Otherwise, Lekala seems to be a normal (Russia-based, I believe) business that tries to sell personalized computer-generated patterns for a very affordable price.

ORDERING & DOWNLOAD

If you worked with downloadable patterns before, this is no different. One annoying thing, though, is that the page layout is not very economical. My order was for a A4 paper format and I got a 38-page download, with 10 empty pages in between (they do print with a page identifier, though). I will go on and delete those empty pages in Adobe Acrobat, but not everyone knows how to do it.

As for delivery, the PDF containing the pattern was in my inbox in less than an hour. Since I have ordered as a guest, without registering, I had to download the instructions (a separate PDF) from the Lekala site directly. The instructions are very brief, and the translation from Russian is not very good, but you can definitely follow them. It is rather a list of steps, not a detailed description of the process - not very useful for a beginner.


WHAT HAPPENS NEXT

I will try to make a muslin this weekend and report to you next week. If you are very keen to start on it on your own, here is the link. The pattern costs an amazing $2.49, and if you register you will get further 10% off. No advertising, really, just facts.

Have you had any experience using Lekala patterns? Would you use this particular pattern for our sew-along? If not, why?

PMPS Draft Along #9: Straight Skirt Front

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Readers, I must admit, I have never written such a detailed tutorial on pattern drafting. I've checked it several times for possible inaccuracies and should you still find some, please let me know as soon as possible!

In this tutorial I tried to explain every step where needed, such as placement of darts, making adjustments at the hem, etc. I used several resources as a guidance (some mentioned below), but I have adjusted the method trying to make it as accurate and as close to custom fit as possible. So far, it worked for my body. I hope the results will be worth it for you too.  

In this post I am covering the straight skirt front, and here are the drafting steps:
  1. Waist shaping
  2. Side seam 
  3. Waist dart
Note: To make the process easy to follow I am using letters in the alphabetical order to mark the step sequence on the pattern. If the Step 1 is A, for example, Step 2 will be B, Step 3 – C, and so on. This will ensure that you won’t skip steps, and can easily refer to instructions at any given step.

Let's check the points / lines on our skirt outline:

IMAGE: SKIRT OUTLINE
  • AD is the waist level
  • EF is the mid-hip level
  • GH is the low hip level
  • BC is the hem
Color coding in drafting: As an example, I use a blue or green pencils for the initial drafting; for adjustments, a red or orange; for the final adjustments I make after fitting the muslin, I use purple.

Before we start, please print out the linked PDF for drafting reference. You final pattern may look slightly different, but the drafting steps will be the same.


Step 1: WAIST SHAPING (point I)

Remember we measured the skirt length on the side, as well the lengths on the sides, center front and center back. We are going to use this measurements now to shape the waist. The reason we shape the waist is that having a straight line at the waist would result in excess fabric and cause wrinkling in that area. 

If you got two different measurements for your left side to floor and right side to floor, use the longer side measurement for the following calculation. Final adjustments for the asymmetrical sides can be made during the fitting. 

1. AI (waist shaping) = (skirt length at the (longer) side) - (skirt length at center front)

For a figure with flat stomach and/or curvy hips, point I will be under point A. If you have a protruding stomach and/or only slight hip curves, you may get a zero or negative value. In this case point I will be over or above point A.

Draft a waistline curve from point I to point D



Step 1: SIDE SEAM (points J to L)

To draft the side seam we will measure out waist, mid-hip and low hipcircumferences from the center front.

2. AJ (waist line) = (front waist line calculation) + (front dart calculation)

3. EK (mid-hip line) = mid hip calculation. 

Note: In most cases you won't need any adjustments for the point K. Only if you have a longer dart in the front, which extends below mid hip level, you may need to accommodate the dart intake when making final adjustments. 

4. GH (low-hip line) = low hip calculation

5. (optional) BL (hem line) = BC + 1.9cm (3/4") 

Just to explain how this step affects the look of your skirt. On our initial outline the width at the hem equals the width at the hip. If you leave it like that, your skirt will look slightly tapered at the hem when you wear it. So, it is really your personal decision.  1,9 cm. (or 3/4") are suggested by Kenneth D. King as a reasonable amount to add to create an illusion of a straight skirt. 

6. Connect points J, K, H and L (or C, if you skipped step 5) to draft your side seam.

Possible adjustments at this point: In his Skirts book, Kenneth points out that for some people (for example, for those with a wider waist measurement) the side seamline may make a dent-in at point J. In this case you can smooth out the curve at point J by adding out 0,3 to 0,6 cm (1/8" - 1/4") towards the side seam line DC.

7. True the hip curve length. 


Using a ruler, measure your low-hip length from the hip line (point H)  to point J on shaped waistline. If necessary, adjust the low-hip length. Sometimes, making the hip curve shallower or fuller helps reduce or, accordingly, increase the length of the curve. If the difference is significant you may need to reposition point J, but this will happen only in very specific cases.


Step 3: FRONT WAIST DART (points M to P)

Note: Two darts should be used if the difference between the waist and the hip circumference is over 10". Details will be explained in a separate post. 

8. JM (dart distance) = 6 to 8cm (2 3/8" to 3 1/4")

Example: my waist is 70cm  (27 1/2") and I am using the dart distance of 7cm (2 3/4"). It's really a judgement call, but generally I would use 7cm (2 3/4") for the waist range of 68 to 76cm (27" to  30"), and 6cm and 8cm for smaller and larger waist measurements respectively.

Please note that point M is the dart center, not the nearest dart leg!

As I have mentioned in my dart post, I like to position front darts closer to the side seam, as recommended by the German Muller & Sohn pattern drafting system. Darts positioned closer to the seam line tend to look more flattering on the body. This is especially true if you don't have a flat stomach. Unless you make your garment in a very lightweight fabric, you darts will create some bulk. Moving the dart with its bulk closer to the side seam will make the stomach appear flatter, and it will also make the waist appear wider. If your waist is much narrower than your hips, you may want to decrease this difference by placing the darts closer to the seam. You may as well want to do the opposite to create the illusion of a smaller waist by placing the darts closer to the center, but make sure you are not accentuating your tummy. Just consider all the variables before you go for any of the dart options.

So, if you decide to use a placement closer to the center, use the Suzy Furrer chart, in my case, each dart would be 1cm closer to the center.


Fine, enough lyrical deviation on the dart theme. Let's move forward!

9. OM=MN= 0.5 x dart width

ON is the final dart width that we calculated in the previous post.

10. MP = dart length

If you have a (relatively) flat stomach, the line MP is squared down from the waist line IJ.  ( For protruding stomach, the dart point should be shifted toward the side seam ) Use the value calculated in the previous post.

Example: my dart intake is 3 cm (1 1/8") corresponding to the dart length of 10,5 cm (4 1/8").

Connect the points to draft the legs. NP is a straight line, and OP is slightly curved inward.

True the legs of the dart by adding to the shorter leg and correcting the curve.

To correct the curve,
(1) place the dart point over a corner of the table, with the dart on the table surface; (you will need a small cardboard sheet or cutting mat underneath to protect the table)
(2) crease the dart leg closer to the center with your fingers by pinching the paper;
(3) fold this line over to match the other dart leg, pivoting the folded paper portion from the dart point;
(4) temporarily tape the matched dart legs to close the dart.
(5) using a french curve, or a curved ruler, redraw the curve with a tracing wheel, making sure it perforates all the layers of the folded out dart.
(6) open the dart
(7) redraw the waist curve with a pencil, following the perforated line.

11. If your dart crosses the mid-hip line (EK), measure out the dart intake on the mid-hip line from K toward point F to find point K'. Redraw the seam line J-K'-H-L.


FINAL PATTERN

Your final skirt front pattern follows the points I-N-O-J-K-H-L-B-G-E

If you went for a slightly tapered look and didn't add width at the hem (point L), your pattern follows the points I-N-O-J-K-H-C-B-G-E

Please, copy your final pattern following the points above (including point C) to a new pattern paper. It will help make final alterations for the muslin. Make sure your pattern paper can accomodate the back pattern piece as well.

THE SKIRT FRONT IS DRAFTED!
Congratulations!

Please do leave comments and ask questions even if you haven't started drafting yet. I would love to hear how you are doing. Also, post on our Flickr group with or without pictures, it would be interesting to follow specific cases. 

PMPS Draft Along: Important

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Dear readers, if the next Skirt Back post appeared in your reader, please disregard it - it was unedited version. I pressed 'publish' by accident, the post is back to drafts. For now, draft the skirt front only!

Please, post the pictures of the drafted front on Flickr so I can upload the next post. Jolly drafting!

And the winner of the Classic Tailoring book is...

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+AnaJan Stepalica, a passionate seamstress and blogger from Belgrade, Serbia!!!

This is what she said:
"I'm thankful to my parents for letting me learn to sew. I was self taught when it comes for sewing. I started in my early youth, by making clothes for my Barbie dolls. I remember a situation when my dad was vacuum cleaning the room where I used to sew. He was on his knees and all of the sudden he screamed in pain as a pin perforated his knee. I was punished for a week, being forbidden to sew. After a while my parents gave me a sewing machine, and that was a beginning of a beautiful friendship that still lasts!"
Congratulations, Ana, and enjoy the book!


Ana, please contact me at mvk(dot)fashion(at)gmail(dot)com with a mailing address!

Thanks to all of you for leaving wonderful comments and sharing your stories on these pages. I enjoyed reading each of them.

CoutureGRAM: Chanel jacket

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As you all heard, often a picture is worth a thousand words. In this new post series I would like to post images of couture clothing I found on the web and elsewhere.

A question to you, readers: what could be the purpose of the center back seam? I don't have a ready answer. (Thanks to Sewing Sveta for asking)















Please do leave a comment if you enjoyed this post, or if you have any questions or thoughts to share...

Chanel jacket: Center back seam and other mysteries

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Ok, let's look at our intriguing center back seam again and another observation re hem. There are different and interesting opinions here and all seem to be valid, so why don't we all look at it.

We have three versions, which do not exclude each other:

A.The center back seam (common in tailoring) incorporates subtle fitting steps and helps make alterations at a later stage - I looked at Claire Shaeffer's Chanel collection in her Shaeffer on Chanel CD, and yes, there are quite a few jackets with center back seam. It is probably the era - I prefer shaping with princess seams, but  
B. Some of the fabrics for Chanel designs are woven on narrow looms, so it would have been impossible to construct the jacket without a center back seam 
C: The Hem: After studying these images again and again, I think the jacket was shortened at some point. This would explain the unusually bulky hem and the transition from quilting to the hem at the bottom of the jacket. 

Lets look at the pictures again. The quilting lines look like they were not restitched, so the center back seam is part of the original design that's for sure.


Now, look at this hem. It looks like there are more layers there, and that it was hemmed by simply turning over the quilted portion - it looks like a double hem. I don't remember seeing anything like that before - usually the lining would be attached to conceal the hem edge. Is it a bad alteration job?


Look at the hem portion again - it does look pretty bulky or.



What do you think about the hem, readers? Was it altered?

CoutureGRAM: Burberry Prorsum zipper remedy

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Things got really busy here, readers, and after a few trial runs, I am ready to launch my own couture business. The content of this blog will slightly change, and I hope I will be able to show some of my work and a few behind-the-seams posts. This will mean, however, less frequent posts as I really want to focus on quality.

The sew-along update will come this week - sorry for the slow speed. I have a lot of respect for those seasoned sew-along organizers like Gretchen, or Casey, or Tasia...  As for me, this skirt sew-along or draft-along will be the last one for a while, sorry. My biggest problem is the time, especially now.

Now, the previous post (the Chanel jacket mysteries) was a lot of fun. I got a looot of great comments, thanks. Isn't it fun to have a look at some amazing garment and pedantically dissect it, section by section.

So here is our next Couturegram post. It is not an haute couture piece, but quite elaborate bustier by Burberry Prorsum. I really liked it - mostly because it is influenced by Dior, and I love Dior (yes, me too). And I love the peplum...

Source: Saks Fifth Avenue
Now look at this zipper. While I thought it is a good choice to have a metal zipper which can handle stress, the fabric along it just can't handle all the stress. In the peplum area, along the zipper, it's behaving well, exposing only a thin line of metal teeth - there is no stress in this section. From the waist up, however, there is a lot of pulling.

Source: Saks Fifth Avenue
So, here is my question: what would you do to remedy this problem, or, how would you construct the garment to avoid this pulling at the zipper?

Godet skirt again and a GIVEAWAY!

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Readers, I missed you. Beginning of this year I was not sure if I wanted to blog anymore - workload,  brushing up sewing and patternmaking skills, and so on... I like doing custom work and teaching, but I also want to blog. The key question was how can I provide unique content, so I tried to re-evaluate my approach/ attitude to blogging and sharing the knowledge I accumulated so far. I must say mail I received from some of my readers during the break helped a lot. Thank you!

...Well, since, after a long break, this seems a good topic to start over again, please allow me to brag (again, I AM really sorry) about my old Burdastyle godet skirt, which was chosen for the Threads' Reader's Closet.




The poor skirt was unworn for quite a while, the hem was unpicked for a couple of couture techniques demos and Show & Tell meetups. I was so tired of it that I was quite happy to send it away (yes, I do feel bad about it). It was only after a few weeks at Threads that I knew I really wanted to wear this skirt again. I was wearing it for two weeks in a row, and after receiving compliments from my friends and, yay, strangers, I feel that our relationship is great again...

Well, enough of the skirt. The good news is Threads magazine sent me two extra copies of the magazine and, since I am a subscriber anyway, I decided to give them away to my readers. Everyone is welcome to enter - my US as well as international readers. All you need to do is leave a comment by Monday next week, and I will announce two lucky winners who will be chosen by random drawing. 

PS: By the way, everyone can be featured in Threads. All you need to do is upload your garment to the Reader's Closet Gallery on the magazine website and include a brief description and techniques. Hope to see some of your garments there!


The link I HAD TO share: hand-made dress shirts

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Ok, if you are following my Facebook page you have already seen those (yes, it is much easier to update the Facebook page than the blog), but I still wanted to share this link here. Facebook timeline is like the dark matter of internet - you know something is there but after a while all your links and status updates are impossible to locate. So, here we go!

Dress shirts: hand-made is better - This post, readers... this post is a jewel of all aficionados of hand-made. This occasionally updated blog is a sartorial treat and, if you are into tailoring, you have to give it a good read! To make it even more enticing, here are some teaser pictures from the post, featuring some of the world's best hand-made shirts.

exquisite hand-sewn buttonhole

undercollar has a cut-out canvas, which allows for a better roll. 

partly hand-sewn flat-felled seam

Now, tell me you are not impressed !




On my sewing table: Pleated silk skirt

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I have a confession to make, readers. I have never made a pleated skirt before. Ok, I did, tried, but the pleats were a little messy, overlapping or spreading around the hips. Not significantly, but annoying enough to produce a wadder. What has changed? I've learned how to integrate the dart intake in pleats, and if you do not possess an 'ideal' figure, it is not done equally, readers. But more about it in a separate post  - it requires a more complex graph to demonstrate it, and I will post it once I the pattern is ready. Here I just wanted to show you the style I decided to make and my fabric choice (from the stash, readers - hail to stash busting!).




To make this skirt I decided to use this medium-weight Oscar de la Renta from my fabric stash. I bought it at Mood maybe two years ago, but in case you like it, they still have it in two other colors online. I think the weight is good to give a pleated skirt some body and structure, not too thin, not too stiff.



Now, let me warn you - this is my first pleated skirt based on this method and it may still go wrong. So just wish me luck and do tell me what's your experience with pleated skirts? Have you used commercial patterns or drafted it yourself? What was the outcome?

And the winners of the Threads Magazine are...

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and 

SewingElle of He Cooks... She Sews

Please contact me with your mailing address at mvk(dot)fashion(at)gmail(dot)com, and thanks to everyone for congratulations and participating!  

Dart placement in the skirt

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As I am delving further into the new patternmaking method by a Russian designer and patternmaker Galya Zlachevskaya (more about it later) I am gaining much better understanding of the general principles. It has often annoyed me in other systems that you had to memorize, or frequently refer to, extensive tables and formulas for dart placement, for example. The graph that I am placing below gives answer to many questions about skirt dart placement.

adopted from a book by a Russian designer and patternmaker Galya Zlachevskaya

What I am learning is that darts should be distributed at the hip line within dedicated areas only. Where precisely they are placed depends on the individual body and aesthetics. Let's take hip circumference of 90cm (35.4") - I will be using metric system from here on because of the ease of calculation with decimal numbers.

1/3 of the hip circumference in the front area (30cm in our example) can be used to place our front darts without hardly any effect for the fit. You can move them closer to the side seam or to the center front - it won't matter much unless you have some pronounced curves - in this case you will want the darts to place so that they help create an appropriate shape around your tummy.

Same applies to the back area: 1/3 of the hip circumference (30 cm for our example) for the back darts (there could be two, four, six, or even more darts), which should point at the most prominent part of your buttocks, or, as a less accurate solution, placed in the middle between center front and side seam

What you can't do is move your front or back darts to the side darts area (that extra intake at the side seam), which takes up approximately 1/6 of the hip circumference (15cm in our example). That also gives you a range for the side seam movement. Adding 1cm, or more, to the front or to the back is, actually, purely a design decision, not a construction necessity as it is sometimes presented. On the graph, though, the hip circumference is distributed equally since this is the easiest for the calculations for a basic straight skirt - the first project in this patternmaking course.

This whole dart placement rule makes even more sense if you are designing a pleated skirt. I am talking a pleated skirt where pleats are only pressed and start at the waist (not mid-hip). Why? If you are not curvy you may be just fine with the most common way of creating pleated skirts:

(hip circumference - waist circumference) : number of pleats = pleats reduction at the waist. 

This would work great for a perfectly round ball, but our waist looks more like an ellipse from the top with slight deviations. So, if you are slightly curvier, even distribution at the waist can lead to a problem when some pleats overlap where less intake is needed (usually in the front), or spread where the intake in not sufficient (usually in the back, or on the sides).

In the past two days I have browsed internet in search of a perfect pleated skirt and realized a pleated skirt is not possible without compromises. I will continue on this subject later... Today, I would love to hear your comments about this dart placement rule! Please leave your comments and feedback about the subject. 

A correction to the post on darts

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Dear readers, it happens to me as well - I misled you in my previous post and feel really embarrassed about it. The dart placement areas should be determined at the hip line, not at the waist line, according to the author - I corrected everything in the original post. I must add that I am still testing this patternmaking method and will keep you updated!

Sorry!

New vintage trends and pattern matching

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Few weeks ago, I spotted this skirt by the Vivienne Westwood Anglomania label. It sold out on net-a-porter for a 'mere' $519 - it's her mass market line after all, right? But I loved the skirt for its pleat manipulation and some vintage feel (just imagine it with a petticoat)



Now, imagine my surprise when I went through my skirt patterns and found this:


There is of course, some difference between the skirts: the pleats on the pattern cross, while the VVA pleats cross on the right, with one more slanted pleat on the left.  To be honest, I like the pattern version more, but I absolutely love the blown up digital print on the VVA skirt.

The bad thing is the pattern is for the 33" hip, just a few inches less than mine. And with all that dart intake obsessiveness going on on my mind, I think I will just draft a new pattern based on the vintage one. That is if I have time for it - I still need to finish two summer skirts for myself and a dress for a client.

By the way, I found the same skirt on Zappos, but this time it is in solid cotton. What a difference, right?


What recent trends do you love, readers? I know, we all love timeless pieces, but maybe there is something new you discovered this season or two?

This is why...

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... there are no posts for a while! We are moving across the ocean :) I will be back to blogging end of September. Miss you!



Hello, world!

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Getting back to blogging after a Transatlantic move with the family (including two demanding kids), turned out to be more DEMANDING / TESTING / CHALLENGING / NERVE-WRECKING / BACK-BREAKING... than I thought. Hey, for us it was the first move with kids and more than two suitcases. My stash alone required twelve large boxes I am ashamed to admit. But I love our new (nicer!) house, I even got a room only for sewing and crafts, I even started working on a few projects,.. but no blogging. No idea why! I would wake up every morning with blog post ideas, but then, when I got to computer, all I could say was 'Hello, world'...

Anyway, the blogger block is over, friends. So here I am! My room is still an unorganized mess, but, hey, look, I am working! And to give you some visual satisfaction, here are pics of my not-yet-so-glorious workroom/ studio.

If you are interested I can share some room-organization-in-progress (I love peeping into other people's workrooms!), as I intend to

  • hang up my thread organizers
  • install mood board tiles
  • organize stash
  • set up my embroidery station
  • unpack my Babylocks
  • find place for arts and crafts supplies
  • hang curtains (and make them before hanging) 

I am now wondering, readers, whether that's really all...  oh no, I also got to hang up some artwork, and my favorite poster from the Metropolitan... wish me luck - I have been trying to hit 'Publish' for a couple of minutes now! Phew...

Christmas Dress planning

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As I am writing this, the house is almost vibrating, so loud is the thunderstorm that has finally reached Nicosia around midnight. Rains are very rare during summer, up until November, and this one is so strong - it is loaded with energy. I have always associated thunderstorms with renewal, the new energy and so I had to get up and write the next post.

In New York, blogging was for me an escape from the daily life, especially at the beginning. Here, it seems more like a consequence of it. The day loads you with new experiences, leaving a strong imprint on every day of your life, begging for an outlet to express everything you absorbed.

We were out today, visiting friends in one of the very few mixed Turkish-Greek villages, very close to the UN buffer zone. Their house, on the outskirts of the village, is surrounded by a lemon and orange groves. We had a beautiful meal outside, while kids were chasing chickens between the trees, picking oranges to take home... The food and wine kept coming, and the conversation was flowing effortlessly, like everything else here, it seems. On the way home, my 4-year old fell asleep in the car hugging a sun hat full of oranges she picked herself. I can get used to this life...

Not so effortless is the Christmas planning this year. I need a nice dress for a formal dinner with my husband's family in Germany on the 24th, the day when Christmas candles are lit, the Bible is read and the gifts are exchanged. A conservative affair, with an oiled routine that has been perfected from year to year...

But, who said the attire, however formal it is expected to be, needs to follow the same pattern. So, when the German-speaking sewing blogosphere announced its third annual Christmas sew-along I was only too happy to join in. I was tempted to participate in the previous two years too, but I just could not nail the style. This year, however, I spotted a wonderful dress that was just perfect: original, practical and versatile.
Images: Vogue.co.uk
Obviously, the dramatic neckline that works so well for the runway, needs to be raised, but otherwise the dress needs no changes. And - what a joy - Burda issued a pattern that is so similar in style and, yet, is more wearable. Gucci has slimmer, kimono-cut sleeves, three topstitched darts (BS dress has three), the cut is slightly different - you can see it in the hip area, and, what's more important, the neckline in Burda version is not as plunging as in Gucci version.  I could even wear this dress for casual occasions over a turtleneck sweater; with wider sleeves it would be comfortable too.

Image: Coat dress #127, Burdastyle Magazine 11/2013
Of course, I went and checked first feedback on the pattern, and the first reviews on the Russian Burdastyle site (Russian members are very fast in sewing up garments) are very positive, the fit notes are helpful, issues with the pattern minimal. This week I plan to make a muslin, and will update you on the progress. I will use couture techniques as usual and try to share them with you once the fit is fine.

What about you, readers? Are you making a dress for the holiday season? Do you start early, or are you a last minute sewer? Any tips for succeeding with a deadline project? Anecdotes are welcome! 


Fabric abstinence, revisited...

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With the climate being really mild here in Cyprus, I really don't have enough warm-weather fabrics. In fact, yesterday was the first time I had to wear my light bouclé cape, but that was an exception.

I thought, yay, fabric stash, here I come. But then I realized that I got mostly wool and special occasion fabrics. Ok,  I do have a few, but not enough.

There are a couple of nice fabric stores here  in Nicosia, but the choice is limited, so I went over to Gorgeous Fabrics (I guess the big pond is no obstacle for a hardcore fabricoholic) and filled up my wish list with silky and flowery treasures:
Images: GorgeousFabrics.com

On the top left, designer print silk georgette and matching chiffon (bottom right). I thought georgette would make a great lining for a black Chanel-inspired jacket, or a skirt, or both (not necessarily worn together, of course). Matching chiffon will look great as a simple top to pair with jeans, or any solid color garment pieces.

Red silk jersey on the top right is being contemplated for a simple wrap dress à la Diane von Furstenberg, and the golden brocade on the bottom left will probably end up as a high-waisted A-line skirt.

What fabrics do you (plan to) sew with this season (i.e. stock up your stash with for the hard times)?

Frabjous kids sewing :)

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It is almost impossible to find a decent-quality cotton nightgown for a girl, it is either pajamas or polyester merchandise by Disney or American Girl alikes. So, I just sat down last week and made this one for my 4-year old.
Quick bits about the project:

Fabric: (Liberty?) Tana Lawn from Mood (last year purchase - yay, I need space for new fabrics...)
Pattern: self-drafted
Seams & Finishing: flat-felled side seams (to withstand multiple washing), double bias binding for the neckline and sleeves

One thing I would change is the finishing on the neckline and sleeves. Tana Lawn next time - it is less stiff for a binding than the solid yellow cotton I used...

What quick projects have you been working on recently?As for me, I am off to print my Holiday Dress pattern and do some modifications - it is for tall sizes...

As I work on my dress...

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Thanks, T. & M. for this wonderful welcome gift!
This motivational mug is my new companion as I am writing planning notes for the Gucci-inspired Christmas dress. I am taking pictures and documenting the process, and will share with you couture techniques used in the construction of this dress. Thanks to everyone for your commitment, support and wonderful comments! Some exciting announcements to follow, so stay tuned, readers!
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